Hello Jim In my experience the suggested ball lock to Sanke adaptors (both gas and beer) are the best solution. I operate a seasonal wedding/party/meeting venue in rural central Illinois. To facilitate the kegs our guests would bring in I built a 2 faucet jockey box with 2 50’ stainless coils in an antique cooler to dispense beer from the bar at the 1912 Barn. I use my ball lock cornys to clean and sanitize the lines. I also enjoy entertaining friends and family with my corny kegged homebrew. To assist in your learning curve I will offer a couple hard learned tips to ease your frustrations: *Do not overtighten the adaptors to the Sanke. The soft rubber gaskets can deform and you will loose a bunch of beer or drain your co2 overnight. *In my case this equipment is used periodicity and not daily. Even when you think a few days of idleness won’t cause any cleanliness issues it does. I have found I must disassemble and clean faucets and Sanke to include adaptors between uses to avoid any dispensing problems with the next use. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions I will do my best. Thanks Henry Norris

You won’t find it here. Type into your browser www (dot) homebrewing (dot) org Then copy and paste all this other shit after it. Press enter. /Cocktails-On-Draft-Adaptor-Kit-20_p_8236.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItZq70orb4AIVB4TICh0k_Aw9EAQYByABEgK9m_D_BwE

These adapters will allow you to attach your ball lock fittings to the commercial sanke keg. You need one gas side and one beer side. Then you connect just like you do on a home brew ball lock keg.

Use ball lock disconnects with 1/4" MFL connections along with swivel nut sets like KEG640 with barbs that are the same inner diameter of the tubing on the sanke system. Gas will probably be 5/16" ID and liquid (beer) will be 3/16" or 1/4" ID.

Hello Joseph - These come with a normal sanke beer gasket inside it would be advisable to remove the check valve for a proper leak free mate.