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Airlock - 3 Piece

    Description

    Airlocks are another one of those necessary pieces of equipment for every homebrewer. If you ferment in a carboy or bucket this 3 piece airlock is a must! It’s a popular alternative to the triple ripple type of airlock because it can be taken apart and cleaned, and is easy to fill. (However we do sell the triple ripple type (FE371) in case you are used to that type and would like to stay with it.)
    While a simple device not all airlocks are the same. Some other designs have only a couple holes in the plastic lid and this can cause the airlock to pop out during an active fermentation. Our design features multiple holes that allow CO2 to escape easily. Additionally some other airlocks have a cross hatch design on the bottom. We have found this more easily leads to Krausen clogs and the airlock being pushed out of the fermenter. Ours is open, allowing Krausen foam to enter the airlock if necesary. Better to clean your airlock out than to find it laying on the floor next to your fermenter 3 days later.
    Another cool feature of this 3-piece airlock is that 1/2" ID Silicone tubing will fit onto the center post for use as a blowoff. In the cases where you are using a yeast known to produce lots of Krausen (wlp002 from White Labs or 1968 from Wyeast for example) remove the top cover, remove the plastic 'hat', and install the silicone tubing. Run the silicone tubing into a jar or bucket of water. When fermentation dies back down remove the tubing and replace the hat and cover.
    Please Note: Airlock only - stopper not included.

    Airlock - 3 Piece

      Product form

      SKU: FE370

      $3.29

      Volume Pricing

      Get a discount when you buy more.

      Quantity Price
      2+ $2.96
      5+ $2.63
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        Description

        Airlocks are another one of those necessary pieces of equipment for every homebrewer. If you ferment in a carboy or bucket this 3 piece airlock is a must! It’s a popular alternative to the triple ripple type of airlock because it can be taken apart and cleaned, and is easy to fill. (However we do sell the triple ripple type (FE371) in case you are used to that type and would like to stay with it.)
        While a simple device not all airlocks are the same. Some other designs have only a couple holes in the plastic lid and this can cause the airlock to pop out during an active fermentation. Our design features multiple holes that allow CO2 to escape easily. Additionally some other airlocks have a cross hatch design on the bottom. We have found this more easily leads to Krausen clogs and the airlock being pushed out of the fermenter. Ours is open, allowing Krausen foam to enter the airlock if necesary. Better to clean your airlock out than to find it laying on the floor next to your fermenter 3 days later.
        Another cool feature of this 3-piece airlock is that 1/2" ID Silicone tubing will fit onto the center post for use as a blowoff. In the cases where you are using a yeast known to produce lots of Krausen (wlp002 from White Labs or 1968 from Wyeast for example) remove the top cover, remove the plastic 'hat', and install the silicone tubing. Run the silicone tubing into a jar or bucket of water. When fermentation dies back down remove the tubing and replace the hat and cover.
        Please Note: Airlock only - stopper not included.

        Frequently Asked Questions

        My airlock is not bubbling? +

        I can see my beer fermenting, but there are no bubbles in the airlock - why? Inspeck the airlock for a crack in the stem of the airlock. If that is not the problem make sure that stopper or the lid on your container is seated properly. Bucket lids are particularly problematic to thoroughly seal. If you are brewing in a conical fermenter try adjusting the clamp and/or lid gasket.

        My airlock blew off. What causes a ferment to be so violent? +

        There are usually a few contributing factors to a violent blow off of your airlock. First is the yeast selection. Certain yeast have a greater propensity to create a "big fluffy head". The yeast that are known for big head productions are White Labs Trappist, WLP300 Hefeweizen, and WLP002 English. Certainly the first two are the most infamous. However, once in awhile we will hear of a yeast like the normally calm WLP001 California busting out of a carboy. A second factor is heat. They yeast go wild when they get hot. Fermentation above 73 degrees are candidates. Another factor is starting gravity. Higher gravity beers have more violent ferments. Sometimes a beer will start to ferment and come to a near halt shortly after starting because of a rapid drop in ambient temperature. When it suddenly becomes warm, because the weather heats up or the carboy is moved to a warmer location, it can cause a yeast breakout. If you plan on brewing with actual fruit in the primary (when lots of sugar are left) you should use a blow off that has a tube inner diameter of at least 1/2". As you can see there is no solid rule for when it will happen but there are certain factors that can be avoided. Don't ferment in a 5 gallon carboy with only an airlock as your primary fermenter. Keep an eye on your fermenter when in doubt.

        My airlock blew off during a violent ferment. Is my beer ruined? +

        The beer is fine. When a ferment is going this wildly it is pushing off so much CO2 that no other microrganisms can fall in and contaminate it. Also, the yeast are replicating so fast that if any wild yeast or bacteria fell in most likely it would be consumed by the yeast. Take the airlock and stopper, sanitize and clean them, and reinstall. Have a pint of beer! Trust us you will have many more yeast explosions in your homebrewing career. Something to remember is every yeast ferments differently at unique temperatures.

        With regards to fermenters, which is better - to use a blow off or an airlock? +

        The question is whether it is better to ferment in a 6.5 gallon carboy or bucket where you have an airlock and there is no blow off versus fermenting in a 5 gallon carboy with a tube attached to the top of the carboy that goes into a jar of water that acts as a blowoff and airlock. With the blow off method most of the krausen gets blown out the top. With the non-blow off method the krausen settles back into the beer after fermentation. In the past homebrewers thought that if you blew this gunk off you would profit from cleaner beer. Some people feel that the blow off beers lose some degree of bitterness, as the oils are lost with the krausen, but it might not matter so much in the long run.

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